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It started off as an adventure with my wife, a 1954 Velocette MSS and a one-way ferry ticket from Ireland to Bilbao.
Covid had delayed the trip, but 2020 was to be start of our love affair with the north of Spain. We got off the ferry on a September Sunday morning, rode into Bilbao to see the famous floral puppy outside the Guggenheim Museum, before heading south on our planned route of Bilbao – Alicante – Pyrenees – Bordeaux – fly home. We were leaving the bike with a French friend, returning in the spring to go to Germany and visit friends there.
Attempting to avoid motorways, we made approximately 100km before a long climb over a Basque mountain started to rumble the big end. In hindsight, it was easy to join the dots and see an incident six weeks earlier involving a blown oil return pipe to be the cause of the issue, but at the time, a freewheel back down the hill and a rethink in Durango put us on the north coast beside Bilbao for the next three days, waiting for the ferry home.
We had three days to look, chat and consider the north. It also gave us the invaluable experience of a vintage touring failure on mainland Europe. A plan was hatched.
The northern interior of Spain is relatively empty of people, cars and tourists. The roads are in good order, the scenery is varied and absolutely spectacular, the food is fresh and delicious and it is possible to buy property starting at very modest prices. What is not to love, if riding vintage bikes in a great climate makes you happy?
The weather can be damp on the Atlantic coast, but come inland 100km behind the coastal ranges and the climate is drier and fresh. June to October is predictably warm in the high 20s, reliably drier and warmer in July and August. Perfect riding weather!
We came back as soon as legally permitted with appointments to view 15 properties over four days – mostly village properties in Las Merindades. We came on the rebuilt MSS, two up with luggage strapped on for a week of hunting. The search stopped at property 12, in a quaint village near the larger town of Medina de Pomar.
For the next four years we spent three or four months each year working on the property to create a workshop space and accommodation.
The big idea has always been to plan, host and offer vintage motorcycle touring for small groups of enthusiasts on their own machines initially, with the possibility of hiring vintage machines in the future. The base we have is the hub of Las Merindades. The great passes, including Lunada, Sia, Muñecas are all within an hour north, la Rioja is within an hour south, los Picos de Europa are a morning’s ride west. In fact, when we were searching online, we restricted our search to within 60-70 miles of the ports of Bilbao and Santander. Coming from Northern Ireland, it’s much easier on the tyres and logistics to use this crossing from Rosslare, rather than riding through Scotland, England and France.
Spanish bureaucracy is singularly frustrating and can be slow to navigate. It does work, but the first word you will learn is manańa – tomorrow! On a number of occasions we have received approval for works and begun immediately, only to discover that we should have waited for another cog in the system to throw a Spaniard in the works! That said, we have made some great Spanish friends who help us a lot, and the lifestyle and culture is very appealing.
There are opportunities for remote working, digital nomads and projects to promote tourism. Our friend Pitu specialises in arranging and facilitating such short-term opportunities in the region. Alongside our Spanish lawyer, accountant, architect and language teacher, he has been invaluable to us also.
Which all brings us to Summer 2026, and we are in the process of selling this, our initial project, and establishing a more permanent larger home to accommodate our ever-burgeoning family and motorcycling ambitions.
Another perspective….
As Graham’s wife, pillion and construction labourer, I’d like to add a few words!
I love classic motorcycle riding with its leisurely pace, unique style and friendly compatriots. Post-pandemic, we’ve poured all our spare time and resources into this project. Year after year, developing a deeper appreciation of the area, the people and the lifestyle.
The humble beginnings of our venture have resulted in us starting a second, larger project, where we can develop our touring enterprise and host our friends and family. Hence advertising the sale… don’t get me wrong, we still love our little workshop and the dream of spending restful days on the sunny terrace in this peaceful little village, while Graham scoots around the beautiful countryside. It is was what kept me working so hard on it.
We’re staying local, as this area around Medina de Pomar has proven to be our favourite destination on all our ventures on the Iberian peninsula. I believe Las Merindades is the next big thing, with its authenticity, its fresh clean air, its agricultural productivity – all positives in my book. No boring, barren, scorched, over-commercialised landscapes here.
You feel you are discovering, not repeating. From taking our Spanish lessons to attending the countless fiestas and community events – we may be the clueless foreigners, but the locals smile ‘hola’ and the streets feel clean and safe.
Our place is great for not only your mates’ bikes, but also your family’s bicycles, canoes, fishing tackle… the days off the saddle will be as rewarding as those on it.
The advantage of this property, close enough to ride off the ferry, means family or companions can drive alongside and have plenty of fun and frolics, city day trips, local artisan visits, or just lounge there and enjoy your base in the sun.
Link for property on Idealista:
https://www.idealista.com/inmueble/111773427/?utm_medium=socialmedia&utm_campaign=private_sendadtofriend&utm_source=notifications
Link for us:
https://moag2020.com
