It’s easy to justify Japanese if coming from a modern bike, Matt Hull explains…
THE BEST ANSWERS IN LIFE ARE most often a compromise. But if you fancy looking at buying your first classic bike, looking to the far east is a pretty good solution to avoid pitfalls.
Buying a classic motorcycle is buying into a previous decade – which one is down to you. But you are also buying into that decade’s technology, servicing, performance and the older you go, the older the parts are! And the more change there is from modern bikes, so there may be more to learn, but many owners say there is more character the older the bike.
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In time past, an owner was presumed to have some mechanical knowledge of their bike. Even today, new riders are taught on CBT how to adjust their chain. A little knowledge is a massive confidence booster, and today magazines, clubs and online give a fantastic array of help with this. Don’t feel alone! If in doubt, 70s and 80s bikes will be the easiest to become familiar with at first.
There may be a bike in your past you are particularly fond of, so do your homework. What are the weak points, how are the spares back up, is there a local club meet, or perhaps local owners? All this helps. Let’s have a closer look.
Which model? Putting your parts on
Nowadays, your route to an enjoyable ownership will rely on parts availability. New Old Stock (NOS) parts are drying up, so it’s secondhand or non-genuine parts. Unless you like challenges, buy a common model. Hondas, Suzuki and Yamaha all have good spares availability for the better known models, so follow the crowd!
There are parts that are simply unobtainable below a frankly ridiculous price, like fuel tanks or silencers. But tanks can be repaired by specialists, and there are hundreds of bike silencers out there, so just choose one that looks right for you.
Controls
If you’re coming from modern bikes, and especially if your classic is an addition, you’ll find the controls are in a similar place. Gear lever on the left, down for first gear, with at least four, if not five or even six gears. Brakes are in the same place too, and while you may need to get used to a slightly – more relaxed – brake performance, you quickly get used to them. Brake and clutch levers could be heavier to pull compared to modern bikes. Switchgear is also similar. Nothing worrying here, just lubing cables and adjustment, then lubing electrical connections.
Engine and gearbox
Most Japanese bikes are unit construction with the engine and gearbox in one casing. They tend to leak less than British bikes, as the crankcases are joined horizontally, not vertically. The tolerances Japanese factories worked to were also much tighter, as their machinery was newer and their manufacturing practices more efficient.
Oil needs to be the right type and checked regularly. Valve clearances need to be done at the right time, and four-stroke engines may need the cam chain replaced, or the tensioner adjusted.
Two-strokes need the best quality oil, and will need the gear oil changed regularly. Both two and four-strokes could benefit from a lead-replacement additive and carburettors must be drained when not in use. They can also be a pain if not used regularly, so look if you can get gaskets, etc.
Two-strokes add another layer of learning, and take time to get used to. The engines are simpler with no valves, but they can be more temperamental! Most try to keep them standard as tuned bikes tend to give more trouble than it’s worth.
Fixings
Japanese bikes will use metric nuts and bolts, which is a real bonus to most of us. But they did like crosshead screws for areas like engine covers, and these differ to our European crossheads. Look for a few JAS screwdrivers, as JAS has different angles, making European screwdrivers likely to slip and round the head off. Don’t be tight!
Electrics
Alternators, points ignition, coils and generators are similar, but charging systems were getting better all the time. Regulator/ rectifier systems especially play up. So at least buy a trickle charger if you prefer shorter journeys to keep the battery pepped up and get happy with what does what under the seat.
Many imported bikes will have old, dried-out looms that crack, so be prepared to renew wiring, check earths, and check lighting regularly. The looms are straight-forward, so you should get to grips with it. And be careful not to overload with modern lights, heated grips and other tat.
Talk, ask and listen
Finally, there’s a lot of knowledge out there, so don’t be on your own. Japanese bikes are great for riding and working on. It’s even better with others!
